September 11, 2019
My friend Danielle (who also makes the sweetest art illustrations for kids), came to one of my punch needle workshops this spring. She had never needle punched before, but brought her own sketch and made this adorable little fox. Doesn’t he have the most thoughtful expression on his face? After Danielle was finishing punching her fox on a stretcher bar frame, she asked me to help her turn her project into a little pillow. I though I’d share the process in a blog post, because people can’t get enough of these plush punch needle projects!
This tutorial will show you how to turn a finished punch needle piece into a plush pillow or stuffie. While I’ve used a square shape in this tutorial, this process is the same for any irregular shape including stuffies like my animal creatures or grapefruit.
Step 1: Cut your square of backing fabric one inch larger than your punch needle piece. For this project, the punched area measured 10” square, so I cut the square of backing fabric to be 11” square. Medium-weight fabric is ideal, but if you fall in love with a light-weight fabric, you can add a layer of fusible interfacing for more structure. I used Essex Linen Blend in Metallic Sand and added woven fusible interfacing to the back.
Step 2: Remove your completed punch needle piece from the frame. You may need to use pliers to loosen the staples if you used a stretcher bar frame. Press the punch needle area with an iron to help it lay flat and to shrink any fibres before you cut out your piece. Be sure to use the appropriate heat setting for the type of yarn.
Step 3: Using a ruler and marking pen, mark half an inch out from the edges of the punch needle piece. Cut along the marked line with fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. My front piece measured approximately 11" x 11" (including the foundation material border).
Step 4: To prevent fraying, finish the cut edges of the monk’s cloth with a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine or by dabbing a small amount of white glue along the cut edge. If using a zig zag stitch, try not to catch any yarn loops in your stitches. If you use glue, allow it to dry before proceeding to the next step.
Step 5: Lay your backing piece and punch needle piece right sides together. Pin or clip the pieces together to prevent shifting. (Tip: sewing clips are amazing for thick pieces like this!)
Step 6: Using a backstitch, sew all the way around the border of your punch needle piece, stitching as close as possible to the last row of needle punched stitches. Try not to catch any yarn loops in the stitches. Along the centre of the bottom edge, leave a five inch opening between the starting and ending points of your stitches being sure to securely knot your thread on either side of the opening. (Tip: If you’re making a smaller stuffie, the opening will be smaller. Leave at least a three inch opening between the starting and ending points of your stitches. If your stuffy has an irregular shape, try to place the opening along a straight or slightly curved area of your shape.)
***A little note about sewing: Even if you’re an experienced sewer, stitching together a punch needle stuffy can be a little frustrating. The yarn makes things bulky, the fabric shifts, and things don’t always line up quite right. I’ve had the best results with hand stitching because I can get nice and close to the outer border of the yarn with my needle and thread. You can certainly use a machine to sew your project, but I suggest using a zipper foot to get in close to the yarn border and stitch sloooowly.
Remember- unless you stitch super close to the edge of the punched area, you will see a border of your foundation material between your needle punched area and the backing fabric, which may or may not be the look you’re going for. Another option if you’re having trouble stitching close to the yarn border, is to chose yarn and a backing fabric in a similar colour to your foundation material when planning your project so that it's not as noticeable if the foundation material shows.***
Step 7 (optional): To reduce bulkiness, use fabric scissors to trim the excess seam allowance from the backing fabric being careful not to cut into your stitches at the corners. Don’t trim the monk’s cloth foundation (to avoid fraying), and leave the seam allowance along the opening untrimmed as well (this will make stitching the stuffy closed easier).
Step 8: Turn the stuffie right side out by pulling it through the opening. You may need to use a long object such as a knitting needle to make sure the corners are fully turned out. With your iron, press the seam allowance of the backing fabric half an inch towards the wrong side. Insert the stuffing through the opening, pushing the batting into all four corners.
Step 9: Pin or clip the opening closed, then sew closed using a ladder stitch.
That’s it- all done! Little hands will love to cuddle this guy.
Want to make your own? Shop my punch needle kits here (square frame or round frame) and check out my punch needle FAQ post for more info. Thanks for reading!
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November 03, 2019
November 01, 2019
This month I was featured in an article by Chatelaine Magazine on bringing punch needle into your home décor. The article touches on the current trend of punch needle, its history, and profiles a number of talented punch needle artists selling patterns, supplies, and finished work. Writer Iris Benaroia interviewed me for the article and included a great little write-up of me and my work. I love the quote she included of me describing punch needle as “the least frustrating craft I’ve ever tried”. Perfectly summed up!
October 05, 2019
Today I’m sharing a free pattern with you: my punch needle grapefruit! This is one of the first things I made with my punch needle and is a great project for beginners.
When you’re done punching your grapefruit you could turn it into a stuffie like I did (‘cause who doesn’t need a plush grapefruit to snuggle with?) or fill in the background and turn it into a wall-hanging.